The Subtle Art of Pattern Making
When most people think of sewing, they picture the fabric. A bolt of silk, a crisp cotton, or maybe that perfect wool you’ve been saving for the right project. Fabric is exciting and immediate - it’s what we see, touch, and dream about. But behind every beautiful garment lies something far less glamorous, yet absolutely essential: the pattern.
Patterns are the quiet framework of dressmaking. They don’t shout for attention the way a luxurious fabric does, but they decide how that fabric will behave once it’s cut, stitched and worn. A poorly drafted pattern can make even the most exquisite fabric look awkward, while a well-crafted one can elevate the simplest cloth into something remarkable.
More Than Lines on Paper
At its heart, a pattern is a plan. But unlike a recipe, it isn’t just about following directions. It’s about translating the unique shapes and proportions of the body into a flat design that will come alive once sewn.
Measurements are only the starting point. Bodies are full of subtleties—shoulders that tilt forward, spines that curve, busts that sit high or low, hips that carry weight differently. A good pattern takes all of these into account. It’s not just about numbers; it’s about observation and adjustment.
Take darts, for example. They look like simple folds, but the angle and placement of a dart can change everything about how a garment sits on the body. Shift one a few millimetres and suddenly the fabric lies smooth instead of gaping. Adjust the shoulder slope and the neckline follows the body’s natural line instead of dragging out of place. These details might seem tiny on paper, but they make an enormous difference in reality.
The Balance Between Precision and Intuition
Pattern making is often described as technical, and it is. There’s a lot of measuring, plotting, and checking. But it’s also intuitive. With practice, you start to feel what’s needed, to see when a line looks right or when something feels off. It’s part maths, part art, and part problem-solving.
For me, it’s like engineering. Just as an engineer designs something to stand, balance, and flow with its environment, a dressmaker designs patterns to fit, move, and flatter the body. The best buildings don’t call attention to their blueprints, and the best garments don’t shout about their patterns. They simply work - quietly, invisibly, perfectly.
Why do patterns matter though?
So why spend so much energy on this invisible stage of the process? Because patterns are the foundation. If the foundation is wrong, nothing else can truly succeed. Even the neatest stitching won’t disguise a poor fit. On the other hand, when the pattern is right, everything else becomes easier. Sewing flows, details sit where they’re meant to, and the final garment feels natural to wear.
This is especially true in couture and custom dressmaking, where the goal isn’t just “good fit” but exact fit. Ready-to-wear clothes are designed to fit a generic average. Couture patterns, on the other hand, are shaped for an individual. That subtle difference is what makes a garment feel as though it was made for one body - and one body alone.
My personal touch
Every dressmaker eventually develops their own way of seeing and solving fit issues. Over time, you start noticing details in posture and movement that others might miss. A shoulder that always slips forward. A neckline that strains ever so slightly. A waistline that wants to sit half an inch higher.
These details are where the art lives. They’re also what makes dressmaking so personal. Patterns aren’t just diagrams - they’re stories of real people, their shapes, and how they want to feel in their clothes.
When I create clothes for my clients, it's usually a very new experience for them. We aren't in the age of having our clothes made every time we need a new garment. So the process isn't quite as clear as it used to be. I have a process I need to follow in order to create a pattern and then go through a fitting or two to adjust for the shapes and movement that a measuring tape will never be able to catch. This process is something I have developed over time and it's very personal to me, it's not something I can teach another person because most wouldn't have my intuition or touch sensitivity.
Building Your Own Foundation
For many makers, the turning point comes when they stop relying on commercial patterns and start drafting their own. That shift gives you freedom: you’re no longer adjusting someone else’s idea of fit to suit your body - you’re creating patterns that belong to you from the start.
That’s why I teach block building and pattern drafting. Once you’ve got a set of personalised blocks (or “slopers”), you have a foundation you can return to again and again. It means your garments will always start from a place that already fits. From there, you can design almost anything. From dresses, jackets, trousers, even corsetry, while knowing the bones of the pattern are sound.
Teaching the practical skills of building blocks is the best start to any future pattern makers because I could teach you how to make a specific pattern for a specific style or garment. But it wouldn't fit anyone because I showed you how to do it in half scale? The way we create patterns that actually fit is to create a block that fits first, then adjust that block into the sewing pattern you need.
A Next Step for the Curious
If all of this sparks something for you, that’s exactly why I created Your Tailored Patterns. It’s a course that walks you through drafting and fitting your own custom blocks, with step-by-step guidance and room for those subtle adjustments that make all the difference.
Whether you’re dreaming of couture or simply want clothes that feel like they’re truly yours, learning the art of pattern making will change how you sew forever. Because when the pattern is right, everything else falls beautifully into place.
If you're interested in learning more about pattern making or start working on your own custom patterns, check out Your Tailored Patterns HERE
All the best on your sewing journey!
Andi Bowen - Bespoke Stitchery
